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Dry on Dry
Dry on dry is the procedure in which a dry
brush loaded with thick and barely moist paint is dragged over the grain on
the surface of the paper to create texture and is not being absorbed within
the fibers. (More easily done with rough paper). This is used to make
objects look weather beaten such as old wooden doors, textures on rocks,
etc. (Fig.3)
Wet on dry
Here the paper will absorb the wet paint. We
have absolute control and can determine exactly how far to go. However here
we will get hard edges, which is all right in some areas but if you want to
convey the feeling of distance you will have to rely solely on color and
value, not diffusion. Personally I feel that if the whole painting is done
on dry paper, it gives a cut out and pasted on feeling, at times a
cartoonist look. The real purpose of watercolor is lost. (Fig. 4)
Good for straight edges, close ups, etc.
Dry on Wet
This is done with moist paint on a damp brush
with all excess water squeezed out painted on wet paper. With this means of
application we have general control over the edges . Exact shape is not a
concern. We get nice diffusion that will push elements back into the
distance making it belong to the background. Good for background mountains
and foliage. (Fig 5)
Wet on Wet
This is the same as dry on wet, except here
the brush-as well as the paper is very wet. It is used when soft diffusions
are required, but when retaining a particular shape is not a concern, The
paint will go where it pleases. This way we will get "happy accidents". All
edges will be lost. This is when a painting looks fresh. Particularly a good
way to paint clouds in a sky. The sky will paint itself. (Fig 6.)
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Ways to
Control Watercolor
Before I begin, I would like you to
forget for a minute that we have a paintbrush and paper. For a moment,
let us imagine that these are sponges. From the following experiment you
will see that they both can absorb water.
Using a 1-inch bone-dry watercolor brush,
dip it into a small puddle of water and try to absorb the water. It will
take in very little. Now wet the brush and squeeze out all the excess
water using a damp paper towel. Dip it in the puddle again and watch how
it sucks up the water working like a sponge. Keep this in mind. We will
apply this concept later.
So in conclusion.
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A bone-dry sponge will pick up almost
no water.
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A damp sponge does pick up water All
the sponge has to do is touch the water and the water will travel up
into it.
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A saturated sponge can pick up no
water (its already full)
Here is the trick! Damp paper and damp
brushes work exactly like sponges. Any time the brush touches the paper,
water is going to move either from the brush to the paper or from the
paper to the brush. It will move into the drier of the two, however
pigment will be deposited onto the paper no matter which way the water
flows.
Now back to dry on wet paint application.
This means painting with a brush loaded with pigment and very little
water. It produces the glorious diffusions of color and value that are
so characteristic of watercolor. Yet it allows for control of shape.
We'll use this technique the most often.
Most problems occur with the last two
techniques (dry on wet, wet on wet).
Because there is a fine line between how
wet the paper or brush should be. Here we get lost edges, paint running
out of control, back runs (this occurs when water or very diluted paint
is added to an almost dry area, pushing the pigment out of its place
producing unwanted effects. (Fig. 7) |
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Fig. 7 Sample of a back run
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If you are able to
control pigment and wet paper, you will take full advantage of this
beautiful media. The degree of control and diffusion is relative to how
wet or damp the paper and brush are.
So, lets learn how to control watercolor
on wet paper. |
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Experiment 1
Thoroughly wet the paper. Next with a
very wet brush scoop up paint and apply it to the paper. The pigment
will "swim" out of control going where it pleases. There is no control,
all edges are lost. This is wet on wet. |
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Experiment 2
Thoroughly wet the paper. Suck out the
water from the brush with a damp paper towel. (Fig. 8) Scoop up pigment
and touch the paper. You now have more control losing a degree of shape
but to an acceptable level. (Fig. 9) Remember our earlier experiment.
When you have a damp brush with the least water possible and apply the
paint to wet paper, the pigment will go into the paper while the brush
sucks up the water thus giving you the control. |
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Fig. 8.
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Fig 9.
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Experiment 3
Thoroughly wet the paper. Wait about
1-2 minutes until the shine fades away (fig. 10).You can determine
this by holding the paper up to the light source to see if it still
glistens (This is the big secret for control) Now suck out the water
from the brush with a damp paper towel and touch the paper with pigment.
Now you will have good control where the pigment goes but still with the
advantage of blurry diffusion. |
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Fig. 10 When the paper looks like this it is not a good moment to work
on it!
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From the three experiments
from above we now know that the amount of diffusion all depends on how
much water is in the paper or the brush.
Where to use diffused
edges:
This has great advantages for landscape
painting. Soft edges for foliage, background hills or mountains will
give a nice feeling of distance. I have yet to see a sky painted with
clouds in oils or acrylics look better than in watercolor. Foggy scenes
are really enhanced in watercolors. Grass painted in wet paper with dry
paint give such a nice soft feeling that will make you want to lie on
the grass and a have a picnic. It is a great medium to give an
impressionist look to certain areas you want out of focus.
Hints:
Make sure you always use the best quality
watercolor paper (the term is wrong because it is made from compressed
cotton but used for the lack of a better word). I don't advise using the
student quality watercolor blocks made from wood pulp sold at most art
stores. The exception of this would be Arches blocks made from 100%
cotton.
Once the paint is applied to wet paper
you only have a couple of minutes to play with it. Once the paper loses
the glisten resulting from the water not being totally absorbed, you run
a big risk of ruining that area. So make sure what you will put on. At
this stage I try not to improvise.
In case you ever run into trouble and
wish to remove a painted area, check out the lesson on how to correct
and regain white paper in watercolor.
Happy painting!
Johannes |
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